Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

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Received crank seal plate ET236 and it requires 3ea 3/16" BSW tapped holes. I pull out my bsw taps and find a 10-24 in the slot for 3/16bsw.
the drill bit seems to be a #25 for tap hole, which i have, but it is not looking good.
off to the store for new bit.

Removed the dowel pins from the engine split surface for a flat lay on the drill press.

20210108_BSSealPlate1.jpg
 
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craig

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Thanks David, I am already drilled and tapped 10-24.

Changed out the 60Tooth rear sprocket for a 54 tooth.

54ToothRear1.jpg54ToothRear2.jpg

Planning on running the standard 46 for solo street use.
The 54 is there for alternate, maybe hill climbs.
 
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TouringGodet

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But the big question is, will you carry a short piece of chain and an extra master link, to actually swap over to the other sprocket, when you come across the need? I have 46 and 52 tooth sprockets on the Shadow, and carry a one and a half link piece of chain and spare master link.
IMG_3026.JPG
 
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craig

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But the big question is, will you carry a short piece of chain and an extra master link, to actually swap over to the other sprocket, when you come across the need? I have 46 and 52 tooth sprockets on the Shadow, and carry a one and a half link piece of chain and spare master link.
Probably not, but i do have a Renold tin for a master and spare 1/4 hardware. In case a mudguard needs a fastener.


20210109_RenoldTin1.jpg
 
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craig

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Seal plate ET236 install went well. Made a bottom tap from a standard tap 10-24 and this allowed max threads in each hole. The G24 rubber encased seal needs to be proud to the outside about 0.050" to allow flush install at the rear of this seal plate . The ET236 new aluminum seal plate clears the main ball bearing ET91 by about .007"

20210109_SealPlateInstall1.jpg
 
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craig

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Received the VSM wheel bearing seals and they look great.
Thank you Vincent.
Compare to H55 grease retainers, VSM brass seals (shown on right) are to fit inside hub end to allow new brake plates to fit correctly. Also the VSM seals fit more closely to the cone inner race
providing a better seal.
20210108_VSMProperSeals1.jpg
 
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greg brillus

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Check there are no burs or nicks on the shaft/splines.........Good idea to check the fit of a new sprocket first as these can be a tight fit........The output shaft should not be too tight passing into the bearing, problem is if it is too tight it will most certainly push the output bearing to the left side if you have to use too much force to remove it........this is quite common, if you have to linish the shaft down a small amount then so be it. I've had some that were way too tight and almost impossible to insert the shaft without major amounts of force, this including the sprocket as well. Genuine parts are usually pretty good, it's some of the aftermarket stuff you need to watch..........
 
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