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Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

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VOC Member
20201220_ProjectShadow51.jpg

I was offered a Black Shadow project in 2013. I purchased the project and immediately started work on it.
Took the cylinders and heads to local Vincent machinist only 3 hrs away.
Crankshaft had been completed ,prior to my purchase, by a Canadian expert and also the tank was painted and done by "Bones".
Then, another Vincent project came up, Then a buddy stopped by and said" Go buy a BMW and lets travel the USA".
Then I got a wild hair and wanted to do the Trans America Trail (TAT). So I purchased a Husqvarna 701E and proceeded to farkle it out for the off road journey. So the Shadow was boxed up for another day.

All that behind, I am now focused on this Shadow project.
The pic above shows the big stuff with a thousand other pieces and projects in boxes.

My goal is a street friendly Black Shadow to ride on a semi daily basis, couple times a week.
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Update today fitted correct VSM required 09195/09074 bearing set. I used a little propane heat to expand hub to allow outer races to fit in with little tapping. I did use Loctite 641, per KTB, as a follow up on the races to ensure tight fit.

Using new Speet inner smooth axle, I needed a .020" shim on one side and a .010" on the other to space the the new cones at a suitable fit. then I needed .018" on the outside of each cone to allow final install of the new VSM brake plates.

I will need a final grease of the cones and the fitting of Speet special brass bearing seals.20210116_VSMBrakeFit1.jpg


Trial fitted the front mudguard per KTB.
4.1/2", 11.1/2", 2.3/4"


20210116_FtMudGrd1.jpg

Front brace not available yet.

Got to move my rev counter bracket studs to proper locations
 
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Cyborg

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VOC Member
Have you made a decision on paint? What is the plan for applying it?Paint the cases once they are together and do the barrels, heads, and covers separately?
 

craig

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VOC Member
Painting is still an on going plan with 2k rattle can being my solution for the engine cases, cylinders, heads. I have not decided what to do about primer coat for these specific engine pieces.

All of the ancillary pieces -footrest support, engine plates, front kick stands, rear license plate holder, pivot bearing plate, brake plates, spring boxes, rear stand, etc....I normally would bead blast and take to my local powder coater......and I may do that now, but I want to see how this Spraymax does with my application. My weather has been too cold to pursue paint in my small heated shop.

I am looking at Eastwood rattle can 2k gloss black engine heat paint and black primer as Spraymax might not be good for heads or cylinders.

I do need to get the bearings installed in the case halves prior to paint , so that is next task.

20210108_CasePrep8.jpg


Previous owner stripped and polished these engine cases some time in the distant past, maybe the sixties.
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Others may have some input on this, but if I were you, before you put the bearings in (and remove that seal carrier) stuff the cases in the oven and bake them for a while just to try and encourage some of the oil to either vacate the premises or turn itself into something that is less likely to create adhesion problems. I had some cylinders that were painted black. Stripped them with an industrial aircraft paint stripper, pressure washed them thoroughly and the ran them though the dishwasher on the pot scrubber mode twice. I was heating a muff up in the oven to replace the liner and oil started oozing out. As for how hot to set the oven.... good question.
 

davidd

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VOC Member
I found that the oven just had to be warm. I put parts in the oven with just the light bulb on and I could wipe them down with solvent every day. I had to do it for about a week. If it will allow bread dough to rise it should be enough.

David
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
You should better set 200 Degrees C , no problem for cases, a few hours will do . But the oil cannot stand this heat and will turn to smoke and dry. That way I rescued oil soaked green Ferodos and indeed were good as new after this. Any thinner and solvent tried on brake linings will not help as they will not reach into pores down deep.

Vic
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Craig, Have you checked the fit of the G5 in the timing side G15 bearing? I’m getting my cases ready for the final wash and decided to follow my own advice. Instead of being too snug this time, it is a little less than a slip fit. Haven’t measured it accurately, but about .001“ clearance between the shaft and the inner race. Enough to allow the inner bearing race to turn on the shaft. Interestingly the shaft doesn’t show any signs of having a bearing spinning on it.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
New bearings at all four fits, new G3/.G4 main shaft , old G5 layshaft......all fits are nice snug sliding fits.

Using my old G3/G4 , I was honking down on 180grit emery tape to achieve correct size at G4/G14 But same new G14 bearing with new G4 shaft, fit is perfect

MO16BrgFits1.jpg
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Finished the front wheel by greasing the tapered roller front wheel bearings and then installing the special Speet wheel bearing seals.

20210118_SpeetSeals1.jpg20210118_SpeetSeals2.jpg
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Checked this morning and found both ends of my "previously owned" G5 shaft measure the same.
0.87425"
My checking the new G15 bearing bore, it seems to be 0.87460" at same 70F
See, I fixed it

20210119_G5Dim1.jpg
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
i did not reset zero on my micrometer. i will try again.
shaft end , dont hold me to this, appears to be - 0.87425"
sorry , i am working on other projects , no focus.
You cant fix stupid, you just have to live with it.

inside bearing looks like 0.87460

Not using a new G5, "previously owned".
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Working with clutch pieces today, after learning how to operate a digital micrometer.
Some new pieces, some vintage....
the new C3/2 wont easily go thru the new bush PD22 in PD20 sprocket.
I can work it thru, but not free and easy.

20210119_ClutchWork1.jpg
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
No worries... thanks. Good you have 4 C20/1.... you’ll have a fighting chance of finding one that is “ok”.
Just a heads up, if that C21 is used, it’s worth checking the runout if you haven’t. Mine looked ok.. no scoring or bluing, but chucked it in the lathe to measure it and then chucked it in the garbage. If no lathe, you can check it on a flat surface or see if it sits flat against the C23. If not, either the C21 or C23 is warped. You may know all of this stuff already, so apologies if you do..... and we are all guilty of misreading measuring devises at some point.

And Bill... you can get electronic calipers with Bluetooth. You won’t even need your reading glasses. Just feed the results to your IPad or Bluetooth hearing aids.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
When I see the miriad uses a mobile phone is now used for (apart from always ringing ) I thank my lucky stars I cannot get a signal in my house, if I loose my wallet or car keys I panic a little, imagine if I lost a dam mobile phone and could not open my car, tell me I am ill, translate what the cat was saying and other 'necessities of life' now it seems I could not measure in my workshop either!, Thankfully at the moment it would just mean I couldn't ring a breakdown services or use GPS on the road otherwise it wouldent worry me. There is something to be said for the UK poor infrastructure.
 

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Working with clutch pieces today, after learning how to operate a digital micrometer.
Some new pieces, some vintage....
the new C3/2 wont easily go thru the new bush PD22 in PD20 sprocket.
I can work it thru, but not free and easy.

View attachment 39733
could your problem be the new garter seal between the two bushes in the chain wheel be two tight on the newc3/2.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I thought Cyborg was taking the PEE ?,
But I would be lost without my Phone, Don't know why, In the old days we didn't have anything,
I remember thumbing a lift down the A1 at night, After I broke the T/side main shaft on my Goldie.
And when my Special stuffed a fibre pinion, After a long push, A couple of Lads got me and the Bike home ,
In a removal truck, Didn't want to wait 2 hours for the AA.
It's just all in the Head, Panic in my case !.
 

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