Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

Pushrod Twin

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Dry ice in my area is $2 per pound and it is in pellet form called "nuggets" sold thru Praxair welding supply.
i am planning to use dry ice to fit these 09195 races as a precursor (training session) to my engine bearing installs.
I use dry ice pellets for this sort of stuff too. I drop mine into an insulated pot of methylated spirits, can get a slurry to minus 70 DegC (-94F) for better heat transfer.
 

oexing

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This job is a lot easier when you heat the alu hub to 200 degrees if it has to be. Alu got double heat growth vs. steel that you want to freeze just maybe 100 degrees minus at half heat growth . So when you had big troubles to drop the old race out somebody must have got fits a bit wrong in olden days ??

Vic
 

craig

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So when you had big troubles to drop the old race out somebody must have got fits a bit wrong in olden days ??
Vic
I found the H38/1 alloy hub of a built Vincent wheel does not respond well to heat......and more heat might even lead to to wheel issues. So I am going to use the lesser contraction of steel to reinstall the new outer tapered roller races. It just seemed a better solution for this wheel. I think the race fit is fine, but I will use Loctite 641as recommended.

PS. ordered on Jan 4th from ZORO, received on the 6th.

Loctite641.jpg
 
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oexing

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Aluminium is aluminium, no difference when applying heat. You had trouble to get the old race out even with heat. So I guess the fit is tight enough - and you will not have sufficient undersize by freezing the race for dropping it in. This will be maybe one thou less with steel race so no chance to drop it in the hub when that is two undersize. So really heat the hub to 200 degrees when a lot of shrink fit in your hub found, you cannot do wrong with this temperature I´d say. And with a good fit you don´t apply Loctite here, see no reason at all. It is a very different matter with bearings in the hot engine once fits are gone - or never having been to specification.

Vic
 

craig

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I will mic the race/hub fit prior to install. My thought was the torqued in place steel brake drum and spoke flange were not allowing open heat growth of the alloy hub and might allow distorted growth.

The 09195 race on the non speedo side came out rather easily, no heat, simple tap out.
The 09195 race on speedo gear side was tough removal, all the way, heat , hammering.
I was expecting the alloy spacers to be tough removal, but not the case.

I will check the fit and use 641 as needed.

641 is not stocked in my area, having to mail order, going move to other project issues.
 

craig

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Worked up the rear wheel bearing fit and brake plate clearance today. This rim/spoke/hub/drums was assembled 7 years ago and put in storage. The bearing set is a 09196/09074 wide set. A narrow Nilos was used to provide a grease seal, I forget the Nilos part number.
Brake plates need paint/lube fitting, brake shoes need new springs and cotter pins and probably add 56tooth sprocket to left side (46 tooth on drive).

20210105_RearWheel.jpg
 
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craig

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Checking thread fits and shaft fits.
Fitting series D ESA components.

20210106_CrankFit1.jpg

Thinking about checking balance factor, but never set up a Vincent twin to check this.
I have set up Norton parallel twins and calc'd balance factor.
I will look back over my notes , i might need rod end weights and i cant get the large ends.
Hopefully the rods are well known enough to get the weights here.

Here is set up for crank bob weight
20150121_P11CrankBobWeight.jpg
 
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craig

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I trial fit all the crank end pieces on both ends, ESA 22 spring from D series.
Using a pair of stripped roller inner races with enlarged bore ID to check clearances.

20210106_ESA22Spring1.jpg20210106_PinionLockWasher1.jpg

The inner "tang" on the pinion lock washer is too long.
 

craig

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Found a H5/60 sprocket in my used parts and put it on for trial fit.
Steel sprocket weighs 4lbs.



20210106_60TSprocket.jpg20210106_H5-60Stamp.jpg
 
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