Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

[craig]

Looking at fitting main bearings and crankshaft.
Is this mod to seal drive side crankshaft still the best solution? ET236, G24, ET60/2

I don't see any ET60/2 being supplied.

 

[oexing]

Thinking about all that engine breathing thing I decided on a real seal for the mainshaft and binned the old spacer and scroll thingy between both bearings. At same place I put a standard seal plus a hardened spacer for the seal lip. I would never do screws around the bearing seat castings so as not to weaken them.

Vic

 

[craig]

Thinking about all that engine breathing thing I decided on a real seal for the mainshaft and binned the old spacer and scroll thingy between both bearings. At same place I put a standard seal plus a hardened spacer for the seal lip. I would never do screws around the bearing seat castings so as not to weaken them.

Vic

Hi Vic, Thanks. Can you mark up this drawing to show what you did please?

PS- I think I have 10's of thousands of miles with this "old school" seal on Rapides and Comets.

 

[Pushrod Twin]

I didnt bother fitting a crank seal. I believe that as long as you have good piston-barrel fits, good sealing rings, your crank runs true and you carefully fit your crank with new labyrinth seal, the labyrinth will do its job. My engine doesnt pass oil into the primary case.

 

[craig]

My thought is, as foolish as it may be, the primary oil will be the lubrication of the drive side ball bearing if the engine is to return to stock. And the chain tensioner blade (and triple chain ) are continually supplying shaved steel particles to this very oil.
Seemed best to allow engine oil to lube this large ball bearing. Isolate from primary.
Open up the fit between ET19 and ET77.
I forget what was done with spacer ET19.

I dont see any ET60/2 sprockets. Whats up?

 

[Pushrod Twin]

My thought is, as foolish as it may be, the primary oil will be the lubrication of the drive side ball bearing if the engine is to return to stock. And the chain tensioner blade (and triple chain ) are continually supplying shaved steel particles to this very oil.
Seemed best to allow engine oil to lube this large ball bearing. Isolate from primary.
Open up the fit between ET19 and ET77.
I forget what was done with spacer ET19.

I dont see any ET60/2 sprockets. Whats up?

Yea, fair call. Is ET60/2 the sprocket with the inside of the boss ground for the seal surface?

 

[craig]

Yes, i havn't bought one (ET60/2) in 10 years.
So i am thinking something better has come along?

Or is ET60/1 now supplied with this finished seal surface on inside ?

 

[craig]

Parts needed for ESA revision to D style. Plus more springs.
The lock tab washer seems to be a nice addition as well.

I think i remember PD5/2 being too large in diameter.

 

[Pushrod Twin]

Parts needed for ESA revision to D style. Plus more springs.
The lock tab washer seems to be a nice addition as well.

May I suggest that you look very closely at what the lock tab connects to & whether it actually prevents rotation of the nut? I have recollection of an article in MPH which may have indicated that the tab washer is futile. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I have an aversion to tab washers for other reasons as well. They are inevitably made of very soft material so the tabs can be easily formed. I have found so many applications where they have been crushed between the fastener and the base, the result being a loose fastener. I prefer a correctly selected grade of Loctite.

 

[stu spalding]

The long tab of the washer engages with the splines on PD4/2 and the full set of D parts has to be used. Trying to use the D plate with other C parts doesn't work as PD3/2 binds on the tab and PD4 is too long.
Cheers, Stu.

May I suggest that you look very closely at what the lock tab connects to & whether it actually prevents rotation of the nut?