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Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

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VOC Member
20201220_ProjectShadow51.jpg

I was offered a Black Shadow project in 2013. I purchased the project and immediately started work on it.
Took the cylinders and heads to local Vincent machinist only 3 hrs away.
Crankshaft had been completed ,prior to my purchase, by a Canadian expert and also the tank was painted and done by "Bones".
Then, another Vincent project came up, Then a buddy stopped by and said" Go buy a BMW and lets travel the USA".
Then I got a wild hair and wanted to do the Trans America Trail (TAT). So I purchased a Husqvarna 701E and proceeded to farkle it out for the off road journey. So the Shadow was boxed up for another day.

All that behind, I am now focused on this Shadow project.
The pic above shows the big stuff with a thousand other pieces and projects in boxes.

My goal is a street friendly Black Shadow to ride on a semi daily basis, couple times a week.
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Received crank seal plate ET236 and it requires 3ea 3/16" BSW tapped holes. I pull out my bsw taps and find a 10-24 in the slot for 3/16bsw.
the drill bit seems to be a #25 for tap hole, which i have, but it is not looking good.
off to the store for new bit.

Removed the dowel pins from the engine split surface for a flat lay on the drill press.

20210108_BSSealPlate1.jpg
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Thanks David, I am already drilled and tapped 10-24.

Changed out the 60Tooth rear sprocket for a 54 tooth.

54ToothRear1.jpg54ToothRear2.jpg

Planning on running the standard 46 for solo street use.
The 54 is there for alternate, maybe hill climbs.
 
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TouringComet

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VOC Forum Administrator
VOC Forum Moderator
But the big question is, will you carry a short piece of chain and an extra master link, to actually swap over to the other sprocket, when you come across the need? I have 46 and 52 tooth sprockets on the Shadow, and carry a one and a half link piece of chain and spare master link.IMG_3026.JPG
 
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craig

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VOC Member
But the big question is, will you carry a short piece of chain and an extra master link, to actually swap over to the other sprocket, when you come across the need? I have 46 and 52 tooth sprockets on the Shadow, and carry a one and a half link piece of chain and spare master link.
Probably not, but i do have a Renold tin for a master and spare 1/4 hardware. In case a mudguard needs a fastener.


20210109_RenoldTin1.jpg
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Seal plate ET236 install went well. Made a bottom tap from a standard tap 10-24 and this allowed max threads in each hole. The G24 rubber encased seal needs to be proud to the outside about 0.050" to allow flush install at the rear of this seal plate . The ET236 new aluminum seal plate clears the main ball bearing ET91 by about .007"

20210109_SealPlateInstall1.jpg
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Received the VSM wheel bearing seals and they look great.
Thank you Vincent.
Compare to H55 grease retainers, VSM brass seals (shown on right) are to fit inside hub end to allow new brake plates to fit correctly. Also the VSM seals fit more closely to the cone inner race
providing a better seal.
20210108_VSMProperSeals1.jpg
 
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greg brillus

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VOC Member
Check there are no burs or nicks on the shaft/splines.........Good idea to check the fit of a new sprocket first as these can be a tight fit........The output shaft should not be too tight passing into the bearing, problem is if it is too tight it will most certainly push the output bearing to the left side if you have to use too much force to remove it........this is quite common, if you have to linish the shaft down a small amount then so be it. I've had some that were way too tight and almost impossible to insert the shaft without major amounts of force, this including the sprocket as well. Genuine parts are usually pretty good, it's some of the aftermarket stuff you need to watch..........
 

craig

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VOC Member
This gearbox is couple of new gears and the rest serviceable vintage parts. So the shafts should be an easy fit. G15 fits are great, the E91 is an easy fit, but the G14 on the output G4 is not fitting this beautiful used output. The bearing is brand new , not in front of me right now, but i remember C3 as part of its markings.

GearboxBrgFit1.jpg
 

greg brillus

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VOC Member
Craig, Check also the input shaft G 3 into the output shaft to check the bushes........These tend to wear a bit in service especially the larger innermost one (G 16) if the outer one shows some wear this will cause oil loss from between the 2 shafts. If the fit of the output shaft through the new bearing is too tight, put the shaft in the lathe and linish the OD of the affected area with some emery tape........A long length about 3 foot and with shaft rotating pull the tape to and fro.......this will work well so do it carefully only a bit at a time you don't want the shaft a loose fit........Cheers...... Greg.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Although you are ok in the G15 department.... just a comment.
I stand to be corrected, but it seems as though in the case of G15, it is usually when a new bearing is going onto an original shaft? At least that was my experience. That is odd given that one would expect bearings to be made with relatively high precision and the shaft would be more likely to be slightly out of spec.
Note to self. measure and take notes next time.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Craig,
Before you button things together ( and before I do mine) I thinking it might be worth having a bit of a discussion about the G35,G36/1, and G32/2AS.
The last one I did had a new spring and G35 detent. The shifting turned out to be a little stiff and notchy. It’s ok and will improve over time, but maybe there are some suggestions floating around out there. I did rework the spring a bit and cleaned up the end of the G35. In my situation the cam plate looked fine, but maybe it could have used some minor surgery.
 

oexing

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VOC Member
In my eyes - well, obviously - the G 35 looked very pointy , maybe grind it for a bigger radius at the top and polish. Also the spring could be a bit softer and still sufficient camplate positioning in all gears. The spring can be changed any time in case later when getting inside the primary. I did a mod with a lever locking design, no plunger type which gets high side load when changing gear and so no smooth action.
As to the bush in the output shaft: This is very critical to be a nice fit, max. 2 thou play with G 3 . I tried to find the logic of how this gets lubrication, added some more grooves and holes. As far as I know there are suggestions made about mods in this respect but I don´t know . Anybody ? The output bearing is meant to be light press fit on the shaft, like anywhere else for ball bearings or so. So press it up the shaft like before and it should be allright. The output shaft with bearing can then be dropped in the hot case , - provided no staking was done before around the bearing bore .

Vic
 

stumpy lord

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VOC Member
HI,
whilst working in this area I would strongly advise changing the guide pins in the gear selector fork for ones that have shoulders on them. These pins have been known to drop out, with ,disastrous results to the whole engine. These are available from the spares company as G31'/s selector fork pins stepped, and cost£10.85
stumpy lord
 
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