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Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
20201220_ProjectShadow51.jpg

I was offered a Black Shadow project in 2013. I purchased the project and immediately started work on it.
Took the cylinders and heads to local Vincent machinist only 3 hrs away.
Crankshaft had been completed ,prior to my purchase, by a Canadian expert and also the tank was painted and done by "Bones".
Then, another Vincent project came up, Then a buddy stopped by and said" Go buy a BMW and lets travel the USA".
Then I got a wild hair and wanted to do the Trans America Trail (TAT). So I purchased a Husqvarna 701E and proceeded to farkle it out for the off road journey. So the Shadow was boxed up for another day.

All that behind, I am now focused on this Shadow project.
The pic above shows the big stuff with a thousand other pieces and projects in boxes.

My goal is a street friendly Black Shadow to ride on a semi daily basis, couple times a week.
 
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Alyson

Website User
VOC Member
That seat on the blue bike looks like a Drilastic type - not so great with its rivets in rubber coated textile base. You can still get covers for them but really the Pagusa type is a better choice .
Drilastic Ebay

There are different types of Pagusa constructions and I will get one of them but cannot tell yet what´s best to fit to the Vincent , have not worked out how to. The Earles BMW type got no steel springs but a metalastic element for the driver seat, maybe suitable as well .

Vic
Pagusa rubber seats
I'm working on a '66 R60/2 BMW (Earles type) and have the solo Pagusa seat on it at the moment. If it helps, I can take some shots and post up ... just say the word. Alyson
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Alyson, thanks, I found some pictures about that metalastic Pagusa to show how these are mounted. Got my own R 69 S since 1972 but no saddle on her, dual seat. For fitting a Pagusa to the Vincent I have not yet decided how to and which type I´ll get, springs or metalastic. Some more months to go till I get to that stage of rebuilding.

Vic
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Had a problem removing outer race from hub, even with heat. This is a wheel built 8 years ago with a set of W5413 bearings and aluminum spacers. Actually i found 09195 races with w5413 cones.

Anyway, trying get races and spacers out to install a bearing set to accommodate VSM friendly bearings.
Unable to get to a TIG shop, i came up with another method of carving a slot in the race using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, sticking a screwdriver in the slot , then tapping the slotted screwdriver from the other side with socket /extension.

Never know which way photo will post.

20210103_BearingTool2.jpg
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Aluminum bearing spacers are a little easier to pull, even tho they seemed to be stuck.
Hand drill 5/64 (random choice) hole.
fit a sheet rock screw to a small slide hammer puller after grinding sharp point off screw.
one knock, out it came.

20210103_SpacerPull1.jpg

I drilled a little too far first time, weight loss will ad to top speed.
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Following along with the install of VSM brake , i was able to trim the required amount from a new H23 speedo gear. This will allow the gear to clear the new brake springs.

I used a Dremel with a grinding wheel , hand held, but it was too sloppy.......so i changed to a hand held flat file which provided a nicer cut and nicer finish.

20210104_SpeedoGearTrim.jpg

Now held up for Loctite 641, which i dont have ......red, blue, green, but not yellow. 641 will be used to secure the 09195 outer races in the now clean H38/1 hub.
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
VSM best brake install (the drawing in the center) shows Timken 09195 races with 09074 cones , so that is where i am heading.

 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Dry ice in my area is $2 per pound and it is in pellet form called "nuggets" sold thru Praxair welding supply.
i am planning to use dry ice to fit these 09195 races as a precursor (training session) to my engine bearing installs.
I have shaved all the high spots from the hub bores caused by H23 speedo gear staking.

20210104_HubReady1.jpg
 
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Pushrod Twin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Dry ice in my area is $2 per pound and it is in pellet form called "nuggets" sold thru Praxair welding supply.
i am planning to use dry ice to fit these 09195 races as a precursor (training session) to my engine bearing installs.
I use dry ice pellets for this sort of stuff too. I drop mine into an insulated pot of methylated spirits, can get a slurry to minus 70 DegC (-94F) for better heat transfer.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
This job is a lot easier when you heat the alu hub to 200 degrees if it has to be. Alu got double heat growth vs. steel that you want to freeze just maybe 100 degrees minus at half heat growth . So when you had big troubles to drop the old race out somebody must have got fits a bit wrong in olden days ??

Vic
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
So when you had big troubles to drop the old race out somebody must have got fits a bit wrong in olden days ??
Vic
I found the H38/1 alloy hub of a built Vincent wheel does not respond well to heat......and more heat might even lead to to wheel issues. So I am going to use the lesser contraction of steel to reinstall the new outer tapered roller races. It just seemed a better solution for this wheel. I think the race fit is fine, but I will use Loctite 641as recommended.

PS. ordered on Jan 4th from ZORO, received on the 6th.

Loctite641.jpg
 
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oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Aluminium is aluminium, no difference when applying heat. You had trouble to get the old race out even with heat. So I guess the fit is tight enough - and you will not have sufficient undersize by freezing the race for dropping it in. This will be maybe one thou less with steel race so no chance to drop it in the hub when that is two undersize. So really heat the hub to 200 degrees when a lot of shrink fit in your hub found, you cannot do wrong with this temperature I´d say. And with a good fit you don´t apply Loctite here, see no reason at all. It is a very different matter with bearings in the hot engine once fits are gone - or never having been to specification.

Vic
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I will mic the race/hub fit prior to install. My thought was the torqued in place steel brake drum and spoke flange were not allowing open heat growth of the alloy hub and might allow distorted growth.

The 09195 race on the non speedo side came out rather easily, no heat, simple tap out.
The 09195 race on speedo gear side was tough removal, all the way, heat , hammering.
I was expecting the alloy spacers to be tough removal, but not the case.

I will check the fit and use 641 as needed.

641 is not stocked in my area, having to mail order, going move to other project issues.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Worked up the rear wheel bearing fit and brake plate clearance today. This rim/spoke/hub/drums was assembled 7 years ago and put in storage. The bearing set is a 09196/09074 wide set. A narrow Nilos was used to provide a grease seal, I forget the Nilos part number.
Brake plates need paint/lube fitting, brake shoes need new springs and cotter pins and probably add 56tooth sprocket to left side (46 tooth on drive).

20210105_RearWheel.jpg
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Checking thread fits and shaft fits.
Fitting series D ESA components.

20210106_CrankFit1.jpg

Thinking about checking balance factor, but never set up a Vincent twin to check this.
I have set up Norton parallel twins and calc'd balance factor.
I will look back over my notes , i might need rod end weights and i cant get the large ends.
Hopefully the rods are well known enough to get the weights here.

Here is set up for crank bob weight
20150121_P11CrankBobWeight.jpg
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I trial fit all the crank end pieces on both ends, ESA 22 spring from D series.
Using a pair of stripped roller inner races with enlarged bore ID to check clearances.

20210106_ESA22Spring1.jpg20210106_PinionLockWasher1.jpg

The inner "tang" on the pinion lock washer is too long.
 

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