F: Frame mudgards

erik

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
when i bought my comet the inner half of the rear mudgardwas badly cracked.so i bought a new one but after 3000 miles it has cracked again .in the region of the upper srew of the rfm.what is wrong?how can i repair this with a long lasting result? best regards Erik
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I would think it's under stress somewhere, I have put a spacer between the front of the guard and the front frame fitting, And do you have the steel strip that links all the middle bolts?, This is a "C" yes ?.
Cheers Bill.
 

erik

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
yes it is a C and i have the steel strip which hold everything together at the moment.for a quick solution i would like to bond a part of the old mudgard with silikone and rivets into the cracked mudgard.on the other hand i have never ridden such a smooth single cilynder bike like the comet.regards Erik
 

Bernhard_Austria

Forum User
VOC Member
Hi Eric, it‘s Caused by vibrations. I used a transparent Bond& seal (kleb&dicht) between the Blade reinforcement ft 151, ft 152 and the mudguard. So the lifetime should be increased.
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have done something similar to Bernhard for a Vincent that was for sale. I had a roll of 3" wide fiberglass cloth. I wet it with epoxy and ran it under the reinforcement strip for the center and also spots where the stay bolt holes were. I did this to a new mud guard, so it was clean and undrilled. I used two layers, but spread them a little so they overlapped where the bolt holes were. When it cured, I drilled the holes and mounted the mudguard with the reinforcements like normal.

I don't know how well it worked. I felt that even if the epoxy let go of the aluminum that the fiberglass would stay put as an additional fiberglass reinforcement sandwiched between the mudguard and the reinforcement, spreading the shock from the vibration and extending the life of the mudguard.

David
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
First thing is to make sure the chain guard attachment points are nice and tight and no flexing of the brackets as this will allow movement which will quickly damage the guard, especially if the rear stand is used often.
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Sikaflex is good. I did the glass strips because I thought they would spread the load better.

David
 

Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
Whilst in Denmark in 1991 I was commuting from Frederikshavn to Aalborg several times a week and in the evenings returned by a not so direct route that had a rather sever terrain over on the west coast, the weight of the stand alone is nearly double to what it was, also S/S guards fitted late sixties, as an apprentice was trying to get all external bits in s/s any way it parted from the RFM so silver soldered material under guard then put two struts from suspension spindle to forward guard stay never a problem since. The two tubes have put creases in the guard though, but who sees it !
Always trying to keep the aesthetic beauty of the beast my pillion footrest plates slightly longer (one hole space) to support seat keeping same angle to rear lifting handle (as seat stays to RFM pivot spindle is too sever on front seat lugs as "D's"are a totally different design). Then always wanting back up I kept original seat stays / dampers mounted with links to original location and in alignment of new stays, International 95 NZ heading south on unsealed roads my hydraulic damper expired so had to really screw down the friction ones, fitted new damper in Christchurch cattle market before John Britton talk.
bananaman

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